How To Break The Ice (Before Photo Shoot)

How To Break The Ice (Before Photo Shoot)

Getting your portrait taken is an extremely vulnerable position to be in.

It can be stressful, uncomfortable, and frankly quite intimidating. Whether you’re shooting a family portrait, corporate headshot, or big time celebrity, we all have our insecurities.

And when it comes to holiday photo shoots, the stakes are often raised: people are stressed out, there are a million things on their calendars and to-do lists, babies are crying, you name it.

It’s your job as the photographer to recognize that, disarm the situation, and get your subjects to enjoy themselves and have FUN. Make this shoot the most lighthearted and memorable part of their week.

I always try to stop whatever I’m doing when my subject arrives. I sit down with my clients in my studio or on-location and have a bagel or coffee and do everything I can to find common ground.

Especially the type of common ground we can laugh at.

You have screaming toddlers at home? Me too! You like the beach…me TOO, I grew up on surfing the waves. You like smoking cigars? I’ve got a great one you should try.

I try to have a good laugh with my subjects before I ever put a camera between us.

Start a photo shoot off laughing and chances are you’re going to hit a home run.

Here are five easy, practical things you can do to make your holiday clients and families feel more comfortable (so you can take amazing photos of them):

 

1. Genuinely compliment your subjects immediately.

One of the first things I do when my subjects walk in the door to my studio is find something I can GENUINELY compliment about them. But be careful – this has to be from the heart. Maybe it’s their eyes, eyelashes…or even their shoes. FIND SOMETHING.
This will disarm them right away and you’ll notice that they start acting more comfortable with you.

2. Stop & deeply connect with your subjects.

Stop whatever you are doing to set up and take a few minutes to break the ice. I take some time to sit down, look them in the eye, and in a lighthearted curious way ask them ice breaker questions. Where are you from? Tell me about what you like to do for fun?

I then tell them something vulnerable about myself that helps them let their guard down and trust me more. Don’t drop a bomb on them like “when my father-in-law passed away,” but instead make it lighthearted like “I canNOT figure out what to give my Aunt Susie for Christmas” or “I got a speeding ticket the other day…” Everyone can relate. Find some common ground. Before you know it, you’ll be swapping hilarious childhood memories.

If it’s a family, I also try to connect with their kids during this time. I’ll get down on their eye level, make some really silly dad moves and jokes to get everyone feeling connected as a family.

Note that we haven’t even started talking about the photo shoot yet.

This time is about breaking down defenses and getting know each other as vulnerable humans. Helping them trust you.

3.  Make them feel beautiful.

Even if your technical settings are perfect, the background is stunning and the shot looks incredible, if your subject doesn’t feel beautiful…chances are they won’t like the shot. When you are shooting portraits the way your subject feels will determine how great the shot is. Don’t say things like “oh that looks bad” or “OOPS” or “this doesn’t work.”

Too many photographers spend too much time focusing on their settings than they do affirming or directing their subjects in a positive way.

Regardless of what the last shot looks like…let them know THEY look awesome. This comes back to finding stuff you can genuinely compliment them on. Keep repeating step 1 above throughout the rest of the session. When they feel like they look beautiful, they will look beautiful.

Even if you’re not in love with the shot or their pose…tell them you love their dress and how you loved it when you were standing at such-and-such an angle.

DO NOT SAY I hate this angle on you…or that dress makes you look fat. Always try to be encouraging…and work towards a great shot. Even if you haven’t achieved it yet, keep encouraging everyone until you have some gold. I will sometimes take 300 shots of them doing the same thing until I dial it in and get one incredible shot.

 

4. Have a list of jokes handy.

Seriously…keep the fun going. It’s the holidays after all, and people are stressed! Remember, your goal is to make this session the most fun and memorable part of their week.

Naturall, I am a cheesy joke collector…but my friend Jeremy Cowart told me a few years ago that he starting writing down jokes and keeping a list of them on his phone for easy reference. The jokes I have stored are TERRIBLE…which is great for my personality. They almost aren’t funny by themselves but when I laugh at my own dad jokes – that’s where the comedy is. It breaks the tension for them and gets their mind off of other stressors, insecurities, etc.

Humor is definitely a learned skill for some people and for others it comes naturally. I’ve had to work really hard at it but I can disarm a room fairly quickly now with terrible puns…because I’ve spent thousands of hours practicing. 😜

 

5.  Thank them from the heart.

Most of the time your subjects/clients are going to thank you for your time or expertise. But I try to close the shoot with a genuine attitude of gratitude. I thank them for trusting me to do this for them. I tell them how much fun I had and if it’s true…that I’m honored to work with them to capture beautiful images for whatever project we’re on.

 

Last But Never Least

Word of caution with all of these steps above: BE GENUINE. People can sniff a fake miles away.

Practice remaining positive through tough shoots with crying toddlers, offering encouragement at every turn, and finding real things to compliment about the people in front of you. People (almost) always love unsolicited genuine affirmation. Practice giving it freely.

You may even find it making YOU more merry this holiday season.

 

If you’re ready to start pursuing YOUR photography dreams today, check out my FREE training that will equip you to Show Your Camera Who’s Boss. People who take my free training walk away a more confident camera user and better photographer. JOIN ME HERE!

 

 

What do you do to make your subjects feel more comfortable during a holiday photo shoot? Anything I missed?

Which Camera and Lens Should I Buy?

Which Camera and Lens Should I Buy?

Which Camera and Lens Should I Buy

“Which camera and lens should I buy?” I get asked this question ALL THE TIME…

I usually tell them it’s not about the camera or lens. It’s about understanding how to use the equipment, taking manual control, and capturing the images as you intended.

It’s not the camera that makes a great photo. It’s the mind of the photographer. 

I guarantee you that a seasoned photographer could be given any consumer-level DSLR camera that was made in the last 5 years, and we would take photos that could easily be featured on the cover of a magazine or on a billboard ad. Regardless of which camera was in our hands.

(more…)

How To Get Started With David Molnar’s Photography Courses (+ FREE Training)

How To Get Started With David Molnar’s Photography Courses (+ FREE Training)

 

Do you feel regretful when you think about the camera that’s been collecting dust in storage?

Are you not only curious about its settings, but ready to master it with confidence?

Do you dream of the day when you’re finally proud of the photos you take?

Hi! I’m David Molnar. SO many of my students could identify with all of these feelings before taking my free training, Show Your Camera Who’s Boss.

 

It is by far the most popular webinar I offer, and the results are staggering.

Show Your Camera Who’s Boss is 100% free and will set you up for success with your camera for years to come (in a little over an hour’s time).

While I do have a host of paid online courses for further photography education, I recommend the free training first, for a few specific reasons:

1. My goal in this free class is to lay the groundwork for a firm understanding of your DSLR or mirrorless camera so you can start shooting confidently in manual mode!

2. The free training gives you the opportunity to decide if you like my teaching style before you dive into the courses! I like to break things down simply, use hands-on examples, and avoid complicated tech jargon so YOU can learn quickly and easily.

3. I may or may not offer attendees a special deal on my courses. You’ll be glad you showed up… 😉

 

If you’ve already mastered your camera but want to learn something else, I have a handful of other paths for you to take.

Whether you want to learn how to:

  • edit like a pro,
  • shoot pro-quality portraits,
  • build a professional photography website, or
  • shoot & edit amazing iPhone photos,

there’s something here for you.

You can pick a different path right HERE!

I’m excited to help you pursue YOUR photography dreams, as I have with tens of thousands of other students!

It’s never too late to dust off that camera and start pursuing your dreams.

I’ll help you!

The Difference Between Aperture & Depth Of Field (+ 3 TIPS To Controlling Depth Of Field)

The Difference Between Aperture & Depth Of Field (+ 3 TIPS To Controlling Depth Of Field)

The Difference Between Aperture & Depth Of Field (+ 3 TIPS To Controlling Depth Of Field)

The Difference Between Aperture & Depth Of Field 

 

I’ve been asked countless times to “do that depth of field effect,” and it usually makes me chuckle on the inside…

Because the truth is, every image has depth of field.

See this image here? It has depth of field.

And this one? It has depth of field, too.

You see, one of those images has a shallow depth of field, and one of them has a large depth of field.

Take a guess which one is which and we’ll get to the answer later.

What Is Depth of Field? 

Depth of field is the amount of space or distance that is IN focus.

Want to watch a video explaining depth of field? Click here and scroll down to chapter 4.

It’s how much of the foreground and background are in focus around your subject (whatever point you are focused).

Here is Merriam-Webster’s definition for depth of field:

Sometimes the dictionary can make words sound a little more complicated than they actually are. 

All you need to remember is that depth of field is not where you focus, but how much of the image that is in focus.

You can have a very large or deep depth of field, or a very shallow depth of field.

  • A large or deep depth of field means there is a greater amount of space in focus.
  • A shallow depth of field means there is a smaller, more limited amount of space in focus.

What is Aperture?

In its simplest form, aperture is the size of the hole inside your lens.

Aperture describes the opening and closing of the diaphragm blades on the back of a lens.

Check out Merriam-Webster’s definition for aperture below:

Definition of Aperture

Aperture is measured in an increment called an f-stop:

  • The higher the f-stop, the smaller the hole.
  • The lower the f-stop, the larger the hole.

Aperture is also part of the equation when determining the exposure (which really just means the brightness) of your image. To learn about this (plus everything you could possibly want to know about aperture), check out this killer post.

 

The Difference

Alright.

We’ve established that depth of field is in every photo.

We’ve learned that depth of field is the amount of space in focus.

We’ve covered that aperture is the size of the hole in your lens, and you can change that size of the hole to be larger, smaller, or anywhere in between.

I think it’s safe to say we understand what depth of field is and what aperture is.

So how are they actually connected?

The answer lies in how much of the image is actually in focus.

This is controlled by (you guessed it!)…aperture.

Aperture controls depth of field.

(It isn’t the only thing that controls depth of field, but we’ll get to that later.)

As you now know, there are small apertures and large apertures. Consequently, there are deep or large depths of field and there are shallow depths of field.

Think of it like a cause & effect relationship.

When you increase the size of the hole (aperture), you create a shallower depth of field.

A shallower depth of field results in that gorgeously blurry background!

Did you guess a shallow depth of field for this one? If so, you’re right!

Inversely, when you decrease the size of the hole (aperture), you create a larger depth of field.

A larger depth of field results in that crisp, sharp background!

Did you guess a large depth of field for this one? If so, you win! (*high five*)

Fun fact: Sometime around 1880, photographers recognized this relationship and began tweaking lens design so they could adjust aperture using what we now call f-stops. Pretty cool, huh?

To be extra clear, depth of field exists regardless of what the aperture is. The aperture doesn’t cause depth of field. The size of the aperture affects how large or shallow the depth of field will be.

Let’s recap the differences between aperture and depth of field before moving on:

Aperture Depth of Field
Every lens has an aperture. Every photo has depth of field.
Aperture is measured IN f-stops. Depth of field is determined BY f-stops.
Small vs Large Deep/Large vs Shallow
Smaller sized hole = bigger f-stop # Smaller sized hole = larger depth of field
Larger sized hole = smaller f-stop # Larger sized hole = shallower depth of field

Understanding this relationship is paramount for taking photos in which your subjects truly POP. 

I know you know what I’m talking about.

Here are two visual depth of field examples for you. You’ll see both shallow depths and great depths:

Whether your subject is your son playing with chalk on the sidewalk or a regal mountain in the distance, you can control your depth of field using aperture to make your subject(s) pop.

Want to better understand why and how controlling depth of field is the secret to beautifully blurred (or impressively crisp) backgrounds? Click here – I’ll even talk about bokeh…

Now that you understand the relationship (and differences) between aperture and depth of field, I have a mini curveball for you that I hinted about earlier.

Aperture isn’t the only thing that controls depth of field…

Ready to learn TWO other factors that can help you achieve a blurred (or sharp) background?

 

3 Key Factors That Control Depth of Field:

 

1. Aperture

We already talked about this, so I’ll recap.

  • A larger sized hole creates a shallower depth of field.

– How To: Lower your f-stop to get a larger hole, which will let more light in.

  • A smaller sized hole creates a larger depth of field.

– How To: Raise your f-stop to get a smaller hole, which will let less light in.

  • To learn more about how to control your aperture with f-stops (plus everything else you could possibly want to learn about aperture), check out this EPIC blog post.

2. Lens Zoom

  • The closer you are zoomed into your subject, the shallower your depth of field will become, regardless of your aperture/the f-stop number, etc.
  • Inversely, the further you are zoomed out from your subject, the larger your depth of field will become.

3. Proximity

  • The closer you physically step toward your subject, the shallower your depth of field will become, regardless of your aperture/the f-stop number, etc.
  • Inversely, the further you are physically from your subject, the larger your depth of field will become.

Thanks for diving into the “depths” of these concepts with me. 😜

Your photography game will thank you!

YOUR TURN: Experiment with these 3 factors to capture different images with a shallow depth of field and a deep depth of field. Share your photos and which factors you used to achieve the look you got in the comments below!

 

New to this whole photography scene or wanting to brush up on your skills? I have a FREE online training called Show Your Camera Who’s Boss and would love to see you there! CLICK HERE to learn more and sign up for a webclass!

 

What Is Aperture On A Camera? (+ How To Adjust Aperture On Your Canon, Nikon, or Sony Camera)

What Is Aperture On A Camera? (+ How To Adjust Aperture On Your Canon, Nikon, or Sony Camera)

What Is Aperture On A Camera? (+ How To Adjust Aperture On Your Canon, Nikon, or Sony Camera)

You’ve heard the word.

You know it’s important for some reason. You might even know what it means. But when it comes to your actual camera, you might be a bit lost.

What is aperture on my camera? Where is it located and how does it work??

I totally get it…

Aperture is one of those photography terms that can seem confusing at first because it was poorly explained or not explained at all. (Which is precisely why I decided to write the most comprehensive, helpful article online on aperture – check it out.)

Let’s clear the air. The first thing I need to tell you is: aperture is not actually inside of your camera.

What?! It’s true.

Instead, aperture is only inside of your lens.

However! You control your aperture with your camera. (Except old lenses that are manually controlled. Most lenses these days are controlled from the camera.) Then your camera tells your lens what to do with the aperture. It’s like a mini game of telephone between you, your camera, and your lens. 😆

3 Things You Need To Know

1. Aperture is the physical size of the hole that is inside your lens.

2. The size of this hole can be changed.

3. The larger the size of the hole, the more light will come into your lens to expose your camera’s sensor, or “film” in the good ol’ days.

– Large Hole = More Light

– Small Hole = Less Light 

Depending on the aperture size (measured in f-stops – I’ll explain these numbers more later) set in-camera, a specific amount of light will be allowed to come through the lens to hit your image sensor, which lives inside of your camera and operates like digital film to actually expose and capture your image.

Cool, right?!

A Comparison Worth “Seeing”

If you’re having trouble grasping this, aperture works similarly to how our eyes works! Our pupils adjust based on the light in the room to allow more or less light through.

You wake up in the middle of the night and need a midnight snack. Assuming you don’t turn on a light, your pupils become quite large so you can make your way out of the bedroom and into the kitchen.

The moment you open the fridge, the refrigerator light floods your eyes and your pupils quickly grow smaller to let less light in.

You’re driving on a bright, sunny day and don’t have sunglasses on. Your pupils will remain a bit smaller so you can see the road clearly, and your eyes are more protected from light damage.

The moment you go through a tunnel, your pupils will widen to let more light in through the fairly dark stretch, until you re-enter the daylight!

Our eyes are constantly adjusting automatically for us.

How nice! If only our camera could do the same…

Oh wait, it does! It’s called auto mode.

But wait David, I thought you once said that auto was the devil.

You’re a great listener. Auto IS the devil. Wanna know why?

 

Auto Vs Manual Mode

Every time you take a photo in automatic mode, your camera is making a bunch of decisions to get a balanced, or “correct” exposure based on what it thinks is “correct”. These decisions include:

  1. ISO
  2. Aperture
  3. Shutter Speed

ISO, aperture, and shutter speed make up the exposure triangle!

If you don’t understand the exposure triangle, scroll down to chapter 2 of my post on everything you could possibly need to know about aperture. There’s even a video in there with yours truly!

Okay, so the problem with allowing your camera to make all those decisions for you is…

You’re a lot smarter than your camera. You’re also a lot more creative than your camera!

A “correct” exposure is truly subjective, so it’s up to YOU to determine what settings you need to achieve the photos YOU want! In order to do this, you need to take manual control.

Make sense? Auto is the devil because it robs you of your creativity and delivers average (or less than average) photos. You’re better than that, and I’m here to teach you how to Show Your Camera Who’s Boss!

Okay, so I can’t leave all the decision-making to my camera because auto is the devil. How do I take manual control of my camera to adjust my aperture?

Changing Aperture On YOUR Camera

First things first.

Aperture is measured in number increments called f-stops. Each f-stop or “f” number indicates how small or large the hole is.

The trickiest part of this whole article is these aperture numbers are the exact opposite of what you would expect!

  • The higher the f-stop or “f” number, the smaller the hole.
  • The lower the f-stop or “f” number, the larger the hole.

I explain this a “hole” lot more in this article. Read the whole thing or head straight to Chapter 3.

I know you’re itching to know how to adjust the aperture on your camera. Here is an example for each of the three major camera brands on the market today:

Canon EOS Rebel T6

  1. Turn the dial on the top of your camera to manual mode (M).
  2. Hold down the AV +/- button to the right of your camera display.
  3. As you hold down that button, turn the control dial on the top of your camera to the right to get a higher f-stop/smaller hole, and to the left to get a lower f-stop/larger hole.

 

Nikon D3400

  1. Turn the dial on the top of your camera to manual mode (M).
  2. Hold down the +/- button on the top of your camera.
  3. As you hold down that button, turn the command dial to the right to get a higher f-stop/smaller hole, and to the left to get a lower f-stop/larger hole.

 

Sony a6000

  1. Turn the dial on the top of your camera to manual mode (M).
  2. Hold down the AEL (Auto-Exposure Lock) button to the right of your camera display.
  3. As you hold down that button, turn the dial to the right to get a lower f-stop/larger hole, and to the left to get a higher f-stop/smaller hole.

 

Before we go, let’s recap:

  • Aperture is the actual size of the hole inside your lens,
  • which is controlled BY YOU (because auto is the devil), using your camera.
  • You do this by manually setting your F-stop.

– The higher the F-stop number, the smaller the hole, the less light comes in.

– The lower the F-stop number, the bigger the hole, the more light comes in.

Now that you understand what aperture is on your camera, you’re probably ready to dive into how aperture works with ISO and shutter speed to get AMAZING photos. You’re in luck, because I have a free training that breaks everything down to get you shooting!

Dust off your camera and sign up for my free webclass HERE.  See you there!

 

How To Create Brilliant Lens Flare: The 3 Questions You Need To Ask (+ FREE VIDEO)

How To Create Brilliant Lens Flare: The 3 Questions You Need To Ask (+ FREE VIDEO)

You’ve seen those incredible shots.

You know, the ones where it looks like the light is shining down from heaven and gracing the subject of the photo with its brilliant presence?

Perhaps it’s highlighting the softly crashing waves at sunset, or the love between a newly engaged couple.

That magical light effect is actually photography trick called lens flare.

It’s a lot easier than most people think…

And can be accomplished with just your DSLR or mirrorless camera.

Sure, you can create the illusion of lens flare with fancy Photoshop skills, but wouldn’t it be cool to master this trick in-camera?

I thought so.

I’m going to break down lens flare for you, how it works and how to achieve it in your photos. I’ll also share some cool ideas to inspire you to try capturing lens flare on your next photo adventure or shoot!

Check out this video for the sundown – I mean rundown – on lens flare:

 

 

Lens Flare: What’s the Catch?

We’re definitely here to talk about your flare… 😉

In all seriousness, lens flare is the result of a bright light source entering your lens and refracting the light in a unique way. There are a variety of light sources you can play with to achieve this effect, depending on your situation and your budget.

Here are a few:

  1. Flashlight
  2. Studio strobes
  3. Good ol’ sunshine

This scattering of light can cause a variety of lighting effects, including:

  • Starbursts
  • Orbs
  • Rainbows
  • Bright blobs
  • Haze

Distracting or desirable?

You decide.

Lens flare can create a realistic and artistic effect on your image, especially when intentional. It can even compliment your subject or highlight a focal point in your photo!

To understand how to control lens flare, we need to take a light swim in aperture‘s waters. Don’t worry – no sharks in these waters!  

 

Aperture: The Key To Success

I can hear your first question a mile away!

What is aperture again?!

It is simply the size of the hole inside your lens.

Further, aperture is a term used by photographers to describe the opening and closing of the blades on the back of a lens. The number of diaphragm blades generally varies, but a good average is 6 to 9 blades, with some lenses having more and some having less.  

A larger hole in your lens will allow more light in, while a smaller hole in your lens will allow less light in.

Additionally, aperture is measured in increments called f-stops.

I’ll explain how f-stops affect lens flare later on. If you want a comprehensive look at the aperture numbers called f-stops, head over to Chapter 3 of my post on everything you could possibly need to know about aperture.

When you have a great amount of light entering a smaller hole in your lens, the light will shine through those aperture blades to produce a starburst effect. Cool, right?!

While aperture is the primary factor to achieving lens flare, it doesn’t go it alone. We need to make sure we have a foundational understanding of the other elements that make up the exposure triangle as well.  

 

The Exposure Triangle Is Your Friend

You heard me right – the exposure triangle is your dearest friend when it comes to photography.

Consider yourself BFFs. I’ll introduce you if this is your first meeting.

Exposure is the brightness of an image:

  • If the photo is too dark, the photo is considered “under” exposed.
  • If the photo is too bright, it is considered “over” exposed.
  • If the brightness of a photo is just right, we call it a “correct” exposure.
  • A “correct” exposure is subjective to the photographer.

The exposure triangle contains 3 elements:

  1. ISO
  2. Aperture
  3. Shutter Speed

As you can see in this graphic, aperture works with ISO and shutter speed to create a balanced exposure.

If you need a greater explanation of the exposure triangle, scroll down to chapter 2 of this incredibly thorough post on aperture. There’s even a video in there with yours truly!

It’s important to realize that if you change your aperture by increasing or decreasing your f-stops, you’ll also need to adjust your shutter speed accordingly. You’ll see how this affects lens flare in the next section.

Now that you have a basic understanding of the exposure triangle, let’s get back to lens flare!  

 

Gorgeous Lens Flare Is 3 Questions Away

I can feel it.

You’re ready to master this super cool trick!

First things first. If you have a lens hood on, you gotta take it off.

A lens hood is designed to shield your lens from harsh light. When seeking to capture lens flare, you don’t need or want this protection. It’s a big world out there, and you’ve got some light to catch!

Now grab your camera and answer these 3 questions:

1. Where is your subject located in relation to the light source?

– If it isn’t already, place your subject directly in front of the sun or other large light source.

– This means your subject (whether a human or a mountain) should be between you and said light source.

2. Do you want your flare to look like a starburst or a glowy blob?

– The higher the f-stop/the smaller the hole, the more intense the starburst look of your lens flare.

– The lower the f-stop/the larger the hole, the less defined your lens flare will be, resulting in glowy blob(s) of light. Nothing wrong with this – it just depends on what look you are going for!

Here is an real life example from each end of the spectrum:

  3. Do you know how to adjust your shutter speed?

– To get a balanced exposure, you will need to adjust your shutter speed accordingly (unless you’re shooting in Aperture Priority Mode).

– If shooting with a higher f-stop/smaller hole for a sharper starburst look, you’ll need to compensate for the lack of light coming through the lens. You can do this by decreasing your shutter speed to allow more time for light to enter the lens.

Smaller aperture = longer shutter speed

– If shooting with a lower f-stop/larger hole for a bigger, glowy circle of light, you’ll need to compensate for the extra light coming through the lens. You can do this by increasing your shutter speed to allow less time for light to enter the lens.

Larger aperture = shorter shutter speed

 

Bonus: Flashlight Hack

If you want to capture lens flare using a flashlight as your light source, simply shine your flashlight at your camera lens as you shoot.

You can do this one of two ways:

  1. Set your camera up on a tripod or stable surface. Shine the flashlight at your lens as you capture your subject.
  2. Hold your camera and have someone shine the flashlight at the lens while you shoot.

Play around with this – experimenting is the best part!

 

10 Lens Flare Inspirations

Excited to try this out, but feeling a little dry on photo inspiration?

I’ve got a fun top 10 list to get you started…

1. Beaches

2. Sports

3. Portraits

4. Wildlife

5. Sunset (or Sunrise)

6. Pets

7. Architecture

8. Street Photography

9. Landscapes

10. Concerts    

 

Your Turn 

The time has come to catch some light!

All you need to remember are these 3 easy steps:

1. Place your subject between you and your light source.

2. Adjust your aperture according to the look you want.

– For starbursts, go for a higher f-stop.

– For glowy circles of light, go for a lower f-stop.

3. Adjust your shutter speed as necessary to keep a balanced exposure.

Bottom line: be creative and have fun!

I want YOU to follow these 3 easy steps to capture some sweet lens flare. Share your photos and what you learned in the comments below!

 

New to this whole photography scene or wanting to brush up on your skills? I have a FREE online training called Show Your Camera Who’s Boss and would love to see you there!

CLICK HERE to learn more and sign up for a webclass!